Safety goggles on, click RUN When finished, gently scrub the board under running warm water with a nail-brush and normal dish washing liquid detergent. To generate the GRBL code, click the Genrate button - you may get some minor warning about the file (perhaps this is the difference between the two types of SVG?) Go to the Control tab, manually position your laser head, check the dimension by turning the laser tell-tale on (top button on my laser module) to position the board as you want it. set your home co-ordinate back to 0,0 afterwards as the flipping might have moved them. Ensure the dimensions are locked then use the X-Mirror tool. If your X & Y increase from south-west to north-east, you need to flip the image horizontally. Now, my X co-ordinate is reversed which by accident provides the reversing of the foil required to get a true PCB out of the process. the dimensions have been preserved from Eagle. Open LaserWeb and connect to your laser and import the SVG into the Documents control Then drag it to the GRBL generator, note the laser settings (Cut outside/100%/250mm/min) Noye also in the green box. You are know ready to etch the board using your laser. I don't know what the difference between "InkScape SVG" and "Plain SVG" is, I always use the InkScape flavour as it comes up first and it's one less thing to change. Click OK and close the tool window: Then Save As SVG. Open the foil PNG in Inkscape using the DPI from the file - this maintains your dimensions from Eagle: then use the path/Trace bitmap tool to trace the outline of the foil. I use InkScape to convert the PNG to an SVG vector file (which is 90% of the way to GeRBL). Use a minimum Dots per inch of 600 So that is the foil saved as a black and white PNG. So in Eagle, adjust the view so it only shows the layers for bottom tracks, pad, vias and the outline: Then export the result as a PNG: and save it out as a monochrome foil pattern.
Inkscape gcode for eleksmaker software#
Substitute your favorite layup software as you see fit - so long as it will produce a PNG file, this process should work for you also.
The process of going from Eagle to PCB has several stages but they are all quite painless and very quick. 05" when I can which gives very acceptable PCBs. If you have a K40 or similar they are much more accurate and I think you could take greater liberties. 03" to squeeze through some gaps but it is always a bit hit and miss whether a cheapie laser etcher like my Eleksmaker can actually do it accurately enough.
I use a laser etcher to vapourise the track borders on black acrylic painted copper-clad and as a backroom process this isn't really comfortable at track widths below 40thou (.04") I do go down to. I lay up the board usually manually - I find this quite therapeutic. Eagle) InkScape LaserWeb Any circuits I do are always laid up in eagle anyway so making a board from there is simply a matter of clicking the schematic/board toggle on the tool bar.
You will need the following software (not including your layup software, e.g. This is my process for making one-off PCBs which is now my go-to method over perfboard/stripboard and back-wiring (still do tiny bits).
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